Skateboarding’s influence stretches far and wide, leaving its mark on cultures globally. From DIY boards in Soviet Russia to a decade-long ban in Norway, skateboarding’s journey is full of surprises. In Germany, this influence manifested in an unexpected way: the rise of baggy jeans, now a staple in skate culture, thanks to the brand Homeboy.
In the late 1980s, Jürgen Wolf, driven by a desire to establish himself, launched Homeboy Loud Couture. He wasn’t just selling clothes; he was building a brand that resonated with the skate and hip-hop communities. By sponsoring skaters like Claus Grabke and rappers such as Cypress Hill and Wu-Tang Clan, Homeboy became a cultural force. A chance encounter in Hollywood led to the creation of the baggy pants that would define an era of skateboarding fashion.
Today, Jürgen and his son Julian continue to run Homeboy from Germany, keeping the baggy dream alive. They shared their experiences of navigating the fashion world in the pre-internet age, their wild encounters with American celebrities, and their secret formula for crafting the perfect baggy fit.
Jürgen Wolf, founder of Homeboy
The First Skate-Specific Baggy Pants
Many claim to have invented baggy skate pants. Who do you consider to be the true pioneer?
Jürgen: While several brands have embraced the baggy style, in the early days, Fresh Jive was the only one making genuinely baggy pants at the Action Sports Retailer Show. Others came much later.
The Genesis of Homeboy
How did Homeboy come into existence in the late ’80s?
Jürgen: In ’87, I was distributing Airwalk in Europe. I wanted to expand beyond shoes and got in touch with Stüssy. Despite liking their products, they rejected me as a distributor for not understanding their silk shirts. Instead of giving up, I decided to create my own brand. I drew inspiration from the hip-hop scene, where the term “homeboy” was frequently used, and created some designs. I presented these to my sales reps, claiming the brand was from New York and popular among skaters and hip-hop fans.
A chance encounter with a T-shirt supplier led to the creation of coach jackets with my logo. Initially considered ugly, they quickly sold out, becoming a major marketing tool for the brand. It was a stroke of luck that these jackets gained popularity, with people effectively acting as walking billboards for Homeboy.
The story of Homeboy’s New York origins was actually a fabrication, but the sales were so good that no one questioned it at the time. In the pre-internet days, the brand was able to thrive without any fact-checking.
“Homeboy”: Cultural Appropriation or Coincidence?
Do you think using the word “homeboy” from Hip Hop culture was appropriation?
Jürgen: I was young and naive and didn’t know the full context of the word at that time. It wasn’t stealing, I just didn’t have the means to research its meaning in depth. When I asked people in LA, they said it meant “friend,” which I thought was a cool way to bring cultures together.
Homeboy’s Comeback and the Baggy Trend
Some may see Homeboy’s 2016 revival as capitalizing on the baggy trend. How do you respond?
Jürgen: I’m not making a quick buck. I’ve invested a lot in this since 2016, and for years, people laughed at us for promoting baggy pants. But now, the jokes have stopped. I’m proud that we’ve stayed true to our vision for seven years. If we’re now reaping the benefits, I don’t think anyone should hold it against us.
Skateboarding vs High Fashion
What are your thoughts on high fashion brands copying skate and streetwear?
Jürgen: I dislike it when high-fashion brands like Dior and Gucci copy streetwear. I don’t understand why skaters would support the wearing of expensive items from brands like Louis Vuitton, considering the financial realities most skaters face.
Jürgen and Julian Wolf, the father-son team behind Homeboy
Encounters with Rap Legends
Homeboy’s ads featured famous rappers like Cypress Hill and M.O.P. How did those collaborations happen?
Jürgen: Through a friend in Los Angeles. She hosted a party at Bette Davis’s old house. It was there that I met members of Blink 182, Wu-Tang Clan, and Cypress Hill. It was a combination of luck and being in the right place at the right time.
Did you meet Ol’ Dirty Bastard?
Jürgen: Yes, during a photoshoot in New York. It was a good time, though details are a bit hazy.
Julian: I also remember being at a party with Dennis Rodman, which was truly surreal.
Jürgen: It was like being in a Hollywood movie with crazy characters. It was a weekend of partying followed by a long recovery. But I’ve never done drugs myself.
Homeboy clothing ad
The Secret to the Baggy Fit
Where did the idea for baggy jeans originally come from?
Jürgen: I wanted to offer more than just shorts, but the Turkish manufacturers I was working with couldn’t create a good fit for skate jeans. Then, I met someone in Los Angeles wearing wide, self-sewn pants, which he called “baggy fit”. I liked the idea, even though they looked a bit strange at the time.
Is there a secret to crafting good-looking baggy pants?
Julian: That’s our secret formula, like Coca-Cola.
Jürgen: We listened to everyone’s opinions, even from people who disliked the style, and collaborated with our skate team. My daughter’s input also helped us expand our market to include women.
Julian: We experimented with a hundred prototypes, tweaking them until we got the perfect fit, and even went as far as creating our Monster Baggy jeans, which are intentionally oversized. It’s about pushing the boundaries without becoming ridiculous. We also focus on ethical production, choosing Turkish factories over those in China or Bangladesh to ensure quality and fair labor practices.
Jürgen: And we decided to keep our prices affordable so that young skaters can access our products, unlike some brands that overcharge.
Skateboarder in Homeboy gear
Why Homeboy Pants are More Than Just Clothing
What sets your pants apart from the competition?
Julian: It’s about more than just copying our designs. It’s about the soul of the brand, the marketing, and the culture we’ve built. You can copy our pants, but not the soul.
What about Polar pants? Are you worried about their success in the US market?
Jürgen: Not at all. I don’t see it as competition. My focus is on international sales, and finding a US distributor is a challenge right now.
Are you planning to expand Homeboy into the US market?
Julian: Absolutely. We are looking for US representation, someone who understands our brand and can share it with the local market. We’re also seeing Europe gaining influence in the skate scene, with skaters like Daniel Ledermann and Wanja Bach driving the culture forward.
Skateboarder wearing Homeboy jeans
Baggy Pants and the Future
Are baggy pants conducive to getting lucky?
Jürgen: Definitely, you’ll have more sex wearing baggy pants, skinny wearers have less sex.
Are you concerned about the return of skinny jeans?
Julian: Trends that take a long time to enter the mainstream tend to stick around longer. Skinny jeans took a long time to become popular, so people have become attached to them. Baggy pants, on the other hand, are still a long way from going fully mainstream, which suggests they’ll be around for a while.
Will Homeboy ever sell skinny jeans?
Jürgen: Absolutely not. I’ve never sold a pair of skinny jeans and I never will. I’m 62, and I’ve been wearing baggy chinos for years, and I will continue to do so.
Conclusion
Homeboy’s story is a testament to how a brand can shape culture, not just follow it. From a serendipitous beginning to becoming a key player in skateboarding fashion, Homeboy has proven that its baggy pants are more than just a trend; they’re a symbol of authenticity and a commitment to the culture it represents. The brand’s continued focus on quality, affordability, and ethical production ensures it will remain a relevant force in the skateboarding world. If you’re interested in being part of Homeboy’s journey in the US market, the team is definitely open to submissions.
Interview by: Nic Dobija-Nootens
Photos by: Hannes Mautner & Helge Tscharn
