The dream of every aspiring skater once included having their own signature shoe, a custom design bearing their name. While skaters can still emulate their favorite pros’ setups, from trucks to bearings, and even sport clothing inspired by their wardrobe, the signature shoe, once a staple, has largely vanished from skateboarding. In the 2000s, a pro skater with a shoe sponsor either had a signature shoe or was on track to get one. A successful pro shoe was a guaranteed path to financial success. Now, the majority of pros are given popular models to customize rather than having their own unique design. So what led to this shift?
This change isn’t simply due to economics. The costs and risks associated with developing a new sneaker and linking it to a pro are certainly factors. The rise of athletic brands like Adidas and Nike, who entered the skateboarding market in the early 2000s, also plays a significant role. Let’s not overlook the skaters themselves, the trends they follow, and the companies catering to them. The question of “what happened to pro shoes?” is actually more complicated than it appears.
A header image depicting a variety of skate shoes, symbolizing the evolution of footwear in skateboarding.
The Genesis of the Pro Shoe
In the late 1980s and early 1990s, the pro shoe was skateboarding’s equivalent of a gold watch, a symbol of achievement. Initially, only two pros, Natas Kaupas and Steve Caballero, had signature shoes.
The Natas, released by Etnies as they entered the US market, was a leather high-top with ample rubber ollie padding, resembling the early Nike Air Jordans. According to Don Brown, Chief of Brand Strategy at Etnies’ parent company, the inspiration came from seeing skaters wearing Air Jordans, prompting the question of why skateboarding wasn’t benefiting from the sales instead of basketball.
Natas, a prominent street skater, was an ideal choice for the first skate shoe. Simultaneously, Vans was preparing to release Steve Caballero’s initial model. Despite both models’ lasting impact, they didn’t immediately inspire other brands to create their own pro models.
That all changed in 1994 with the launch of Sal Barbier’s Etnies model. The suede low-top, particularly the white upper on a black midsole, had a significant impact. It featured a distinctive “23” embroidered on the heel. As Kelly Bird, global brand manager for Nike SB, noted, Sal’s shoe addressed a gap that skateboarders had at the time, offering a unique design that wasn’t readily available.
The Etnies Natas shoe, a classic high-top model that marked an early entry in the pro signature skate shoe market.
The Pro Model Explosion
Sal Barbier’s Etnies pro model quickly became ubiquitous. According to Brown, he used to give them away to top skaters. This sparked a signature shoe craze, with Vans releasing a Salman Agah shoe and Airwalk creating designs for Tony Hawk and Jason Lee. Around the same time, DC debuted with a model for Danny Way and plans for one for Colin McKay.
Royalties from these signature models could dramatically increase a skater’s income, potentially rising from a monthly check of $3,000 to six-figure earnings. However, success was not guaranteed. Many pro shoes didn’t perform well. Nevertheless, the industry embraced this new revenue stream, and the number of pro skaters with signature shoes soared. However, the designs became predictable, often incorporating similar elements like air bubbles or complex lacing systems.
By the early 2000s, the pro shoe had become commonplace. With a large number of pros having their names on shoes, many without actually being involved in the design process, the allure of the signature shoe began to diminish. As Bird stated, this led to a diluted era where seemingly everyone had their name on a shoe.
A vintage image of Sal Barbier’s Etnies model, showcasing the distinctive “23” embroidered on the heel, highlighting its unique design.
The Shift Towards Simplicity
While brands like DC and éS persisted with athletic-inspired signature designs, Vans shifted back towards minimalist silhouettes, such as the Rowley XLT around 2000.
According to Sebastian Palmer, general manager of New Balance Numeric, during this time, there was a trend for simple, black and white skate shoes. Scaling back shoes to rubber and suede meant removing many unique design elements that set pro models apart. Whereas skaters once had models with unique features, they now often had simpler, cheaper shoes that were harder to personalize and sell.
As Palmer noted, “With a cupsole, you can just put more personality into it.”
A banner image showcasing various signature skate shoes from different brands, illustrating the variety in designs.
The Impact of Athletic Brands
Palmer attributes the shift away from signature models to the rise of athletic brands in skateboarding. At the height of pro shoes, companies like DC, DVS, and Circa were the dominant players in skate shops. However, as Nike, Adidas, and other similar brands gained prominence, the number of pro shoes began to decline. Nike entered the scene with a different approach, not offering signature shoes to every sponsored skater.
Nike introduced its SB line with colorways for its original riders, but it took four years to release a signature pro shoe, the first Paul Rodriguez model, which launched in 2005. Palmer, who worked for SB in the 2000s, considered Paul getting a shoe a significant event.
As Nike and Adidas limited the release of pro shoes, pros were less inclined to pursue them. These athletic companies offered competitive pay without the risks associated with signature designs.
As Bird pointed out, pros could now earn a comfortable living without having to rely on the success of a signature shoe. The likelihood of a shoe won’t determine the outcome of a contract. Those who would be considered for a signature shoe deal are likely to have deals that provide them with a professional athlete lifestyle.
The Vans Rowley XLT, exemplifying the shift toward minimalist skate shoe designs in the early 2000s.
The Emergence of Team Models
Signature models were never without risk. According to Alphonzo Rawls, who designed for DC in the early 2000s, a pro shoe could cost over $500,000 to produce. If the pro left the sponsor or was injured, the company could be stuck with excess stock.
Team models became a safer option. Palmer noted, “If it’s a good design, it’ll sell with or without a signature.”
As the production of pro shoes slowed, major athletic companies began creating more team models and custom colorways. Nike has used this for years, co-branding the Dunk with various collaborators. Companies have also used pro colorways to gauge interest in formal signature designs.
After releasing several colorways of the 440, which many skaters believed was his model, New Balance released a pro shoe for Tom Knox last year. Andrew Reynolds also helped introduce the 480 model after joining the team. He now has a pro shoe in development. Palmer states that the royalties for a colorway on New Balance are comparable to what riders would receive from a signature model. “So they’re effectively like athlete editions, pro versions of the shoe.”
A close up shot of a signature model, showcasing the unique design elements that are typically incorporated.
The Viability of Pro Shoes Today
Regardless of how a pro’s name is linked to a model, some believe a top pro’s name may not carry the same sales power it once did.
Brown stated that the 1990s might have been the last era of “living legends” due to the smaller scale of the industry and the reliance on magazines and team videos for communication. He feels there is no one today on the level of a Muska, a Koston, or a Jamie Thomas.
For now, Brown and Sole Tech are considering a TJ Rogers shoe on éS. Rogers has been successful with his video parts and has several colorways to his name. However, there are limits on how many shoes a company can release each year, and every new model involves risk. Brown said it can be challenging when previous shoes have sold better after removing the pro’s name.
Tom Knox showcasing his New Balance pro model, an example of a recent signature shoe launch in skateboarding.
The Skate Shop Perspective
While data on skaters’ buying habits at skate shops alone is limited, Ken Keistler, who has worked at Chicago’s Uprise for over 20 years, has witnessed how customers respond to a name on a shoe.
He believes it works for certain individuals. An Ishod Wair shoe is a safe bet, because it combines a well-known skater with an innovative design. However, even the most popular pro cannot sell a poorly designed shoe. As he noted, there are shoes on the wall that don’t sell because they look unfinished or clunky.
Keistler understands why brands are more likely to revisit classic designs rather than developing new models, noting the security in tried and tested designs.
Keistler, like others interviewed for this article, believes there is still a place for signature shoes. Although they may never again be standard for pro skaters, they remain a sign of success for those who obtain them.
Bird stated, “I still think it’s one of the shortlist markers of success for skateboarders. Maybe I’m old school in that thought. Maybe people don’t look at it that way anymore, but I kind of think they do.”
A display of various team model skate shoes, showcasing the variety of styles that are popular with skaters.
Conclusion
The decline of signature skate shoes is a result of a complex interplay of economic factors, the influence of athletic brands, shifts in trends, and a change in the approach of both companies and skaters. While the days of nearly every pro skater having their own custom design are likely over, signature shoes still represent a significant achievement and hold a special place in the world of skateboarding. The shift towards team models and custom colorways may be a more sustainable approach for the industry, but the allure of the unique, signature shoe endures.
Maite Steenhoudt showcasing her Adidas colorway, illustrating the collaborative approach brands take with pros today.
