The frenzy surrounding Nike SB Dunks is back, with sneakerheads, fashion enthusiasts, and resellers flocking to skate shops for the latest limited releases. This resurgence has transformed the typical skate shop workday, bringing both financial opportunities and significant challenges for employees.
The release of the Travis Scott Dunks serves as a prime example. While these shoes provided a financial boost for skate shops, they also led to an influx of calls, emails, and social media messages from people desperate to secure a pair, even though shops had posted detailed raffle information online. Some shops even had a little fun with the hype, like Andrew in Miami, who asked potential raffle participants to rap Travis Scott lyrics over the phone. Others, overwhelmed by the demand, chose to disconnect and disable comments. One shop in DC reported receiving over 100 calls in a single day.
A crowd of people gathered outside a skate shop, presumably for a limited shoe release.
The allure is clear: these $150 shoes often resell for over $1,000 online, fueling a lucrative resale market. Major platforms like StockX, valued at over a billion dollars, facilitate these transactions, making skate shops unwitting participants in the sneaker resale industry.
Nike’s strategy of limited Dunk releases has successfully generated hype, attracting both skaters and those with no connection to the sport. As Jian DeLeon from Highsnobiety pointed out, “SBs were sort of a way where legit skaters and sneakerheads…met in the middle.” This created a unique situation where skate shops became the battleground for the highly-coveted shoe.
Close-up shot of the Travis Scott Nike SB Dunk shoes, highlighting their unique design and colors.
In the past, securing a limited pair of Dunks meant camping out overnight at skate shops. While some reselling occurred, the hype was considerably less intense than the Jordan releases of the time. However, the introduction of the Janoski model and Nike’s decision to expand SB distribution to mall shops and their own website diluted the exclusivity, impacting many independent skate shops. “It flooded the market. It made it not special,” commented JP Gillespie, former owner of Sunday in Buffalo, NY.
Additionally, aggressive sales policies by Nike, which allegedly forced shops to buy a minimum quantity of general release SBs to access limited releases, further burdened skate shops with debt, contributing to the closure of Ed Selego’s MIA shop in Miami.
The revival of limited Dunks by Nike SB, particularly through collaborations like the 2018 Diamond Dunk, fueled the renewed hype. A near-riot at ComplexCon during the release of one of the colorways led to the shoes being escorted out by police. These shoes were then released in limited quantities via Nike’s SNKRS app and select skate shops, selling out almost immediately. Nike essentially replayed their playbook from 2010, regularly releasing limited Dunks and collaborating with familiar artists and brands.
An old newspaper headline about sneaker releases and the hype.
The significant difference between the first and second waves of Dunk hype is the accessibility of the resale market. Smartphones and social media have intensified the exposure, while resale apps facilitate quick transactions. Trevor Culley, co-owner of Seasons in Albany, NY, noted, “It’s a complete product of smartphones. Exposure spreads like wildfire on social media, and on the other side of it, there are the selling apps.” This increased demand and potential for conflict have forced shops to adapt. Seasons, for example, had to cancel a release due to safety concerns after encountering a group threatening the line for a pair of Sean Cliver Dunks. They ultimately switched to using a sneaker app, a move that was unthinkable just a year before.
To avoid potential robberies, some shops, especially those receiving the Travis Scott Dunks, emphasized that the shoes were never actually in their store. These precautions were taken after a shop in Asheville, NC was robbed at gunpoint for three pairs.
A photo of a raffle at a skate shop.
JD, owner of Holistic skate shop in Pennsylvania, observes the benefits and drawbacks of carrying Nike shoes. He notes that many shops are dealing with “man-children” who get upset if they don’t win a raffle, adding that the app used to coordinate a raffle at Deluxe in San Francisco broke, further adding to frustration. However, JD acknowledges the financial benefits, explaining that a shoe with a $75 wholesale price could sell for $150-$200, quickly covering rent.
A skate shop employee looking stressed, possibly due to the demands of a shoe release.
Despite the difficulties, many skate shops are managing the hype and finding creative ways to maximize the situation. Some are moving away from the traditional one-ticket-per-person raffle to reward customers who buy other items. Ben Jones, co-owner of Kinetic in Wilmington, DE, pointed out that this helps filter out resellers who bring large groups to increase their chances of winning.
Homebase, in Bethlehem, PA, launched a “Help Over Hype” campaign, awarding a free pair of Travis Scotts for the best random act of kindness and a guaranteed purchase for the most community service hours. This initiative generated over 1,500 hours of community service, showcasing the positive impact shops can have during times of hype.
The current situation, while challenging, is beneficial for skate shops. As Ben Jones stated, “This is a week and a half of hassle for a shop to be financially solvent for the next several months,” ensuring employee pay and potentially allowing for extra bonuses. While the Dunk hype may eventually subside, it highlights the ongoing intersection of skateboarding and fashion. If you’re looking for a pair of coveted Dunks, being demanding and disrespectful is not the way to go.
Words by: Ian Browning
