The world of skate memorabilia extends beyond decks and trucks; vintage t-shirts have carved out their own dedicated niche. These wearable pieces of history offer a unique glimpse into the evolution of skate culture, boasting one-off designs, stories of cease and desist orders, and a tangible connection to the past. We spoke with a few heavy hitters in the skate memorabilia collecting world to learn about their experiences and advice for those looking to start or expand their collections.
Juergen Bluemlein
@skateboardmuseum – Berlin, Germany
First T-Shirt & Graphic Inspiration:
Juergen’s first “real” skate shirt was a Powell-Peralta Bones “Skateboard Skeleton,” purchased in 1988 at Pig City Skate Shop in Brighton. The iconic Vernon Courtlandt Johnson skull graphics were a major influence, leading him to acquire the Bones “Ripper” and Ray Bones Rodriguez “Skull and Sword” shirts soon after.
The Holy Grail:
For 80s collectors, multi-print Zorlac or Powell shirts are highly sought after. In the 90s, it’s the “fucked up” Bob shirts from World, Blind, and 101. Mid-90s kids might chase after Shorty’s Muska or Hook-Ups tees. Juergen emphasizes finding a focus in collecting to avoid financial and space issues. As an artist, he’s drawn to OG skater-artist graphics like Neil Blender, Chris Miller, and Gonz. His personal holy grail is the G&S Blender “Coffee Break” shirt.
Inappropriate Graphics:
Juergen recalls his parents’ disapproval of skull graphics and the baggy look. He was even sent home from school for wearing a “baby vagina ‘Ripper'” shirt, highlighting the rebellious nature of skate graphics.
Shirt vs. Board Graphics:
Skate apparel doesn’t always mirror board graphics because shirts were easier to produce and distribute. This resulted in more unique graphics on shirts than boards, which are also easier to store.
Cease and Desist Tees:
Shirts that faced cease and desist orders, especially in the 90s when brands were less concerned about legalities, are highly sought after. The Santa Cruz “Coca-Cola” Jeff Grosso and the Jason Lee Burger graphic shirts are prime examples.
Online Flippers:
Luckily, vintage t-shirts have mostly avoided the hype-driven reselling market. Juergen misses the days of finding 80s Powell shirts for $3 at Goodwill, as most items are now sorted and resold before reaching shelves.
Skateboarding Fashion:
The acquisition of Supreme by VF Corp for billions indicates the mainstream acceptance of skateboarding and its fashion. However, Juergen is not a fan of high fashion collaborations that dilute skate brands’ identities, like Vans collaborating with Gucci.
Sizing and Condition:
Larger sizes are more desirable, especially in Japan. It’s also crucial to check hang tags to determine a shirt’s era, as sizes could vary significantly in the 80s.
Trends:
Juergen has seen striped shirts in the surf/skate scene, baggy jeans making a comeback, and workwear like Carhartt and Dickies becoming mainstream. He believes that past styles will always inspire future trends.
Current Companies of Interest:
He highlights Strangelove for its amazing graphics by Sean Cliver, Marc McKee, and Todd Bratrud; FACT, created by Damon Way and Ryan Allan, for its new wave 80s vibe; and Loven Skate in London for its silk-screening expertise.
Chris Rice
@destroyedwood – Cincinnati, OH
First T-Shirt:
Chris’s first purchase was a Vision “No Code of Conduct” tee, which he also owned during his youth and even wore in his 8th-grade yearbook photo.
Holy Grail:
Chris seeks Bob shirts, especially those with the tag intact, as well as one-off Blind tees and anything from World Industries. He collects pro model tees based on nostalgia, focusing on shirts he or his friends wore.
Current Hunt:
Chris is primarily hunting for any and all Bob shirts.
Wearing Tees:
Chris occasionally wears the tees that fit, sometimes pairing a Bob shirt with a football-shaped board for a fun skate session.
Online Flippers:
Chris notes that the vintage market has seen prices surge, with many items sitting unsold on eBay due to overpricing. He often finds the best tees through trades with other collectors or from individuals discovering old collections.
Public Perception Change:
Skateboarding went from being hated in the 80s to becoming more mainstream. Chris recalls that the popularity of Green Day in the 90s marked a turning point, with skaters becoming more accepted.
Companies Pulling From Skate Culture:
Chris acknowledges that skateboarding culture has always influenced fashion and is unconcerned about others adopting their style.
Dos and Don’ts:
Chris advises against being a “kook,” not sending unprotected payments, and paying the PayPal fees to avoid scams. He also emphasizes the importance of networking with other collectors.
Sakurai Yusuke
@dhedzz – Tokyo, Japan
First T-Shirt:
Sakurai’s first purchase was a Sean Sheffy Plan B shirt. He regretted not buying it at the time and thus started his collection.
Holy Grail:
He considers the Jason Lee 666 pentagram model for Blind, which became the Natas 101 graphic, as a grail. Political and cease and desist themed shirts are often hard to find and very valuable.
Collection Focus:
Sakurai is particularly fond of companies from the World Industries camp from 1991 onwards, particularly early Bitch and 101, as well as any of the Bob shirts.
Finding Tees in Japan:
Sakurai notes that finding vintage skate tees in Japan is difficult, requiring him to search globally and often import from overseas.
Public Perception Change:
Skate culture was very underground in Japan 30 years ago. The internet opened it up by 2000, but Sakurai feels the companies became softer and the graphics declined.
Skateboarding Fashion:
Sakurai views “skateboard fashion” as a money-grabbing scheme by brands, with young people often buying into it without knowing the history. He criticizes collaborations and resellers, emphasizing that it is more important to wear what you like and to avoid being deceived by trends.
Pricing Clothing:
Sakurai bases his pricing on market research across different apps, acknowledging that the market is inflated by new sellers who overprice items. He misses the days when collectors traded fairly, as prices have become unreasonable.
Current Companies of Interest:
Sakurai is interested in FUCT for its political message and 90s feel.
Conclusion
The world of vintage skate t-shirts is a vibrant community fueled by nostalgia, unique designs, and a love for skate history. Whether you’re looking for a specific piece or simply want to appreciate the stories behind the graphics, these collectors’ insights provide a valuable entry point to this fascinating world. Remember to do your research, network with fellow enthusiasts, and most importantly, collect what you love.
Interviews by: Zac Tait
Header by: Wilson Lucas
