The global skateboarding scene is incredibly diverse, with vibrant communities popping up in unexpected places. While the US skate scene often dominates the headlines, it’s crucial to look beyond and discover the unique narratives emerging from places like Uganda or, in this case, Belgrade, Serbia. This article dives deep into Belgrade’s DIY skate scene, exploring how local skaters are not only building skate spots from the remnants of war but also constructing a resilient and tight-knit community.
In Belgrade, the scars of the 1990s conflict, during which NATO forces bombed the city, are still visible in the form of ruined buildings. These ruins, however, have become an unusual source of materials for resourceful skaters. Instead of simply being symbols of destruction, the debris serves as building blocks for DIY skate spots, a testament to the community’s resourcefulness and passion for skating.
Skaters at the Belgrade DIY spot
The Aftermath of Conflict: A City Rebuilds
The 1990s were a turbulent time for the Balkan region, with the dissolution of Yugoslavia leading to conflicts and NATO intervention. Serbia’s capital, Belgrade, experienced a series of bombings in 1999, leaving a trail of destruction and a lasting impact on the city. The remnants of these bombed-out buildings became a resource for locals, who used the materials to rebuild homes and create urban structures. This resourcefulness extends to the skateboarding community, who turned the debris into skateable terrain.
According to David Milan Kelly, a photographer who documented the scene, “The bombing had to do with contested territory and the US intervening in the Serbian and Albanian conflict over land and war in the Balkans. Corruption is kind of widespread in the Serbian government and there are a lot of views and history I need to understand further to really say something. What I know beyond a shadow of a doubt is that all war is horrific and the terror of your city being bombed is unimaginable.”
Kelly, whose mother immigrated to the US before the bombings, highlights the huge impact the conflict had on people and how the pain of the bombings tanked the well-being of many. This historical context is crucial for understanding the resilience and creativity of the Belgrade skate scene.
From Rubble to Ramps: DIY Skateboarding in Belgrade
The skaters of Belgrade have turned the ruins into a unique skate environment. The materials from destroyed buildings—rocks, trash, and dirt—are repurposed to build transitions and ramps. They even scavenge rebar from construction sites. This resourcefulness is born out of necessity, given the scarcity of proper skate facilities. The contrast between these DIY spots and the remnants of war creates a compelling image of community resilience and creative adaptation.
Skaters building the DIY spot in Belgrade
“We stole a lot of rocks and trash and dirt to fill in the transition of the DIY,” Kelly explains. He adds that the city’s old infrastructure and decaying buildings make it easy to find these materials. Ironically, the only official skatepark in Belgrade, located near the DIY spot, is in disrepair, with people stealing wood and metal from its ramps to use for their own purposes.
The Socio-Political Landscape
Serbia’s transition from a communist country to a free-market economy in the mid-1990s, just before the bombing, further complicated things. The bombing led to high inflation and disease outbreaks affecting both animals and food. Today, the country struggles with low wages and limited job opportunities, except for those with established wealth. This economic context adds another layer of understanding to the skate scene, where resourcefulness and community spirit are essential for success.
A Skate Spot Under the Bridge
The DIY skate spot is located under a bridge near a river used for cargo transport, surrounded by floating nightclubs known as splavs. This unique location creates a vibrant atmosphere, with the neon lights from the splavs illuminating the skate spot at night. This visibility attracts a lot of foot traffic to the area, giving the spot energy and a sense of community. While the area requires sweeping and dodging of broken glass, the constant interaction with the public adds to its unique charm.
Skaters enjoying a night session at the Belgrade DIY spot
The accessibility of the spot also leads to some interesting interactions. While the skaters are often approached by drunk revelers wanting to try their boards, they are understandably reluctant. As Kelly jokes, “There’s glass and shit everywhere also so they’re basically asking to eat it.”
Food, Culture, and Skateboarding
The local food scene also plays a role in the skate culture. Pljeskavica, a large meat sandwich similar to a hamburger, is a go-to food for skaters. This hearty meal is readily available at street stands and is a staple in the local cuisine, reflective of Serbian’s meat-heavy diet.
When asked about who taught them building skills, Kelly mentioned that Reska and David were the most experienced, having previously built a nipple and ramp-to-wall feature. The building process was unstructured, involving a rotating crew with varying levels of construction experience. Kelly adds, “I think building something of this scale, and so publicly, could never happen in the US without a permit.”
The Hardships of Skateboarding in Belgrade
Despite its unique charm, skateboarding in Belgrade is not without its challenges. The skateboarding community is small, with only about 60 regular skaters. “I feel like every trick in Belgrade holds some extra weight,” says Kelly, highlighting the tight-knit community and the weight of their shared experiences. Skaters face hostility from security guards and even random people. Street skating often leads to confrontations, often with older individuals who condemn them. There have been violent fights between groups and skaters have been targeted just for their appearance.
Skaters skating at the DIY spot in Belgrade
The skateboarding scene also suffers from a lack of resources. The quality of skateboards available in Serbia is poor. Most boards sold in the local skate shop are cheaply made, and getting quality boards from abroad is expensive due to shipping costs. This lack of access to reliable equipment is a major obstacle for the skaters, who have to make do with sub-par boards.
Cultural Identity and the American Influence
While Kelly has spent most of his life in the US and identifies more with American culture, he feels his attitude towards skateboarding is closer to his friends in Serbia. He admires the resourcefulness and camaraderie he sees in the Belgrade skate scene.
Kelly brings American music, like Death Grips and Three 6 Mafia, and other pop culture references to his friends in Serbia. While local music like turbofolk is very popular in Serbia, it’s not something the skaters listen to.
A skater doing a trick at the Belgrade DIY spot
The fashion and style of skating in Belgrade were once a decade behind the US. As Kelly explains, “In 2016, when I was 14, everyone in Belgrade was on some hybrid chunky Fallen shoes with skinny pants/shorts 2005 rail skater drip.” While chunky shoes are still around, the popularity of brands like Vans, Converse and baggy clothing has increased. Despite differences in style, the skaters in Belgrade have their own distinct attitude.
The Future of Skateboarding in Belgrade
Looking to the future, the skate community in Belgrade is working hard to expand and bring more skaters together. The DIY park is a crucial part of this effort, serving as a hub for events, concerts, and art galleries. The community’s annual festival, Samit Nesverstanih, shows a growing interest in skateboarding in the area.
Skaters hanging out at the Belgrade DIY spot
Skateboarding in Belgrade is more than just a sport; it’s a symbol of resilience, creativity, and community spirit. The skaters are building a world of their own, using the ruins of the past to shape a more vibrant future. They serve as an inspiration to others and deserve recognition for their passion and their unwavering commitment to skateboarding.
Conclusion
The Belgrade DIY skate scene provides a unique lens into the intersection of conflict, resourcefulness, and community. Skaters in Belgrade have found a way to transform the scars of war into an environment for creativity and community building. The scene is far from perfect, with material limitations, local hostility, and a complex socio-political background adding layers of difficulty. However, it is exactly these challenges that have shaped the unique and inspiring skate culture of Belgrade. By bringing attention to this scene, we are not only showcasing their resilience but also helping to promote their ongoing efforts to expand and connect with the global skate community.
